Roman hairdressing

by Mary Harrsch © 2025

I was researching more drawings by 19th century artist Wilhelm Zahn and found a beautiful drawing of Roman women getting their hairdressed that was found in Herculaneum's Insula Orientalis II.4/19. In February 1761 a shaft was sunk from one of the upper level rooms of the Palaestra down into one of the rooms flanking the great apsidal hall. The room was filled with a number of small paintings that had fragmented. The fragments were reassembled and the original painting is now in the collections of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. The drawing, scanned by the University of Heidelberg, was quite stained and smudged but I was able to remove the worst of the damage with Photoshop. I'll be uploading the cleaned drawing and various images and closeup of the original fresco to Wikimedia Commons for free use as all of them are considered in the public domain in the US.

1828 drawing of Roman priestess getting her hair dressed from Herculaneum Insula II.4/19 by Wilhelm Zahn 1828	Roman priestess getting her hair dressed from Herculaneum Insula II.4/19 courtesy of Everett
Detail of Roman priestess getting her hair dressed from Herculaneum Insula II.4/19 courtesy of Giuseppe Ciaramella	Detail of Roman priestess getting her hair dressed from Herculaneum Insula II.4/19 courtesy of Giuseppe Ciaramella

Roman hairdressing evolved significantly over time, reflecting shifts in fashion, social status, and cultural influences. Here are some key points about Roman hairstyles and hair care:

Early Roman Hairstyles (c. 8th–1st century BCE)

• In the early Republic, both men and women favored simple hairstyles.
• Men kept their hair short and well-groomed, sometimes even shaving their heads.
• Women often wore their hair in plain buns or chignons at the nape of the neck, reflecting a modest and conservative ideal.

Imperial Period (1st–4th century CE)

• As Rome became more cosmopolitan, hairstyles became more elaborate, influenced by Greek, Egyptian, and Eastern styles.
• Women, especially of the upper class, adopted increasingly complex styles with curls, braids, and towering arrangements.
• Wealthy Roman women employed hairdressers (ornatrices) to style their hair using heated curling irons (calamistrum).
• False hairpieces and wigs, sometimes made from blonde or red hair imported from Gaul and Germany, were popular.
• Empresses set trends—Flavian and Antonine women (1st–2nd century CE) sported elaborate curls piled high, while Severan women (3rd century CE) preferred intricate braided buns.

Hair Color and Maintenance

• Natural blonde and red hair were rare in Rome and highly coveted.
• Dyes and bleaches (often made from plant extracts, ash, or saffron) were used to lighten or darken hair.
• Perfumed oils and waxes helped maintain styles.
• Some women adorned their hair with gold hairpins, combs, and jeweled nets.

Men’s Hairstyles

• Roman men generally kept their hair short and well-groomed, but beards went in and out of fashion.
• Emperor Hadrian (r. 117–138 CE) popularized beards, possibly influenced by Greek philosophers.
• Military men often had practical, cropped styles.

Symbolism and Social Status

• Hairstyles indicated wealth, class, and even political affiliations.
• Brides and Vestal Virgins had distinctive hairstyles, such as the "tutulus," a cone-shaped style for religious ceremonies.

The tutulus was a distinctive and symbolic hairstyle worn primarily by Roman brides and Vestal Virgins. It was associated with religious and marital status and had deep ties to Rome’s traditions. Here’s a more detailed look:

Structure and Appearance

• The tutulus was a high, conical hairstyle, giving the wearer an elongated and dignified appearance.
• It involved gathering the hair at the crown of the head and securing it into a cone-shaped bun.
• The hair was divided into six sections (sex crines), which were then braided and wound into the characteristic shape.

Method of Styling

• The hair was tightly pulled upward and fastened with woolen fillets (vittae), which had religious significance.
• A purple woolen band (infula) was sometimes wrapped around the base of the bun.
• It was designed to stay in place for long periods, reinforcing its ceremonial nature.

Symbolism and Usage

• Bridal Tradition:
  • Worn by Roman brides on their wedding day, symbolizing their transition from maidenhood to marriage.
  • The bride’s hair was arranged by a pronuba, a matron who assisted in the wedding rites.
  • This style linked the bride to the Vestal Virgins, reinforcing notions of purity and devotion.
• Vestal Virgins:
  • The tutulus was a mandatory hairstyle for the priestesses of Vesta, who maintained Rome’s sacred hearth.
  • The use of wool fillets symbolized chastity, religious duty, and protection.
  • Unlike brides, Vestals wore the tutulus throughout their 30-year service.

Cultural and Religious Significance

• The conical shape of the tutulus may have had Etruscan origins and was considered an auspicious style.
• It visually separated sacred or important women from others in society.
• Its association with Vestal Virgins meant it carried connotations of ritual purity and divine favor.

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